We had a perfect day cycling from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Akerreta, Spain. I had planned a route that followed the main road over the pass, but had doubts about it the night before. A bit of research put us on a much less travelled route, following one lane paved roads high in the hills. We saw perhaps two cars during our ascent to 1,000 metres, and with the ups and downs our climbing totalled almost 1,300 metres. Yeah Patti!!!!!
We paralled the Camino de Santiago pilgrims. They use a footpath – not practical on our three-wheelers! We shared the lovely hotel in Akerreta, Spain, with a friendly group of Camino walkers. Most had large suitcases that were being transported for them between overnights. The greeting is ‘Buen Camino’.
This is Patti chiming in here: we went from dodging snails on the roads in France to dodging big fat slugs on the road in Spain. The smells you inhale while you’re riding are intoxicating: the pine of the regenerating forests in France, the sheep and cattle in the meadows, the damp earth of the woods as we climbed higher and higher in the Pyrenees. And while we ride through towns (or cities like Pamplona, the scent of meals being prepared. Garlic. Onions. Eggs. Mushrooms. Ham. Or, as was the case last night at our beautiful hotel restaurant (where Martin Sheen filmed “The Way”), Basque cod stew. Mmmmmmm. I also want to acknowledge the wonderful support that all of these Camino pilgrims have for one another. Some are carrying all of their gear with them. Some are using porters to transport luggage to the next stop. Some are taking a chance on a room being available for them, with no reservations (not for me…), some are walking with friends, or on their own, or with partners, or with knee braces, or with nephews.. or mothers. Every walker is onside with every other walker’s journey and the challenges they have overcome to even start, or WILL overcome to make it to Santiago. It is a beautiful thing to witness from the outside looking in. Camino walkers reading this will undoubtedly concur. I feel very privileged to have seen this. People pulling together in a fragmented world.
Here’s a short video with a few views of our cycle through the pass.
You’re so right Patti. That spirit begins almost on the first day, but it intensifies as the kilometres go by. It really is a beautiful thing.
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