May 25th, already. Less than a week until we store the bikes in Lisbon next Friday (May 31st). Ack!
Coimbra is a university town, and we were there the day the students were graduating. If we had stayed on until later on Sunday we would have seen what is supposed to be an epic parade through the streets. (Or maybe it’s best that we would be moving on, early.) The university itself is at the top of the town, up high, reached via winding, steep, narrow streets lined with cafes, bars, and people socializing (and smoking). It was a hot and very dry day the day we visited, and you can bet that we took that climb at a leisurely pace after our 60km., 455m ascent day of riding.
As they are all over the world, university students (and sympathizers) were camped out on the steps, protesting the Israel Palestinian conflict. Elsewhere on the sprawling campus at the top of the town, students who would be graduating were easily identified.
There are Roman ruins under the university buildings, we visited some of them in the cryptoportico under the museum, and then chose to reward our vigours with a leisurely beer in the stunning rooftop terrace where we had fantastic views of the city right down to the river (and enjoyed listening to the party of mostly men celebrating something – see photo. They were having a grand old visit.) Because it was graduation day in the city, most of the university’s attractions were closed, so we decided to head back down the hill after we visited the Monastery of the Holy Cross of Santa Cruz. Very ornate Manueline architecture. A spectacular organ. Back at the Hotel Oslo (for real) we cracked open the cold bottle of white wine we had picked up on our ride. The bar at the hotel provided us with decent glasses and a huge bowl of olives, we set up on our balcony with a view of the city, caught up on trip blogs, and relaxed. (I did mention that it had been a hot day…). An okay dinner out and then it was bedtime. Pombal beckoned, another short-ish day but a series of climbs.
P.S. The student quarters are a rabbit’s warren of streets. Charming were the crocheted sunscreens hanging above some streets.
See photos.). And I forgot to mention the continuous efforts of all of the Portuguese staff who are working in the hotels and restaurants, and parking garages (!!!) where we sometimes store our bikes. They are all concerned that the bikes are safe, secure, and that our batteries will be charged for the morning. I’m really impressed.
