Day 2 – Lisbon to Setubal

Patti and I had great sleeps last night, helping to move our systems ahead five hours. Breakfast was fantastic. We packed up our panniers, left them at the front desk, and walked for twenty minutes to the Jeronimo Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos). But FIRST, we stopped at Pasteis de Belem, THE source for the famed Portuguese Custard Tarts. The tart was still warm from the oven. Patti was in foodie heaven.

The Monastery is steeped in Portuguese, and indeed, world history. Vasco da Gama, the first European exporer to sail to India, is buried here. Essentially, he started globalization, trading European technology and sea-faring expertise for spices and other products which were in high demand in Europe. Portugal became the dominant power in global trade.

The monastery was built in a sheltered cove of the Tagus River near Lisbon to honour the Portuguese shipping trade in the early 1500s. The original Renaissance style has experienced much restoration and repair over the centuries, but the original impressive beauty remains. The double storied cloister where the monks lived and worked is fantastic.

Our tour guide “Rafael” (The Jeronimo Tour, Viator) was excellent, pointing out all of the symbolism detailed in the columns, walls, and ceilings. Homage is paid to the Order of Christ, the organization that rose in Portugal from the ashes of the Knights Templar when they were banned in Europe. Portugal was so far west they kind of flew under the radar. It was also interesting to see the “scribbling” on one of the walls that was used as a “whiteboard” by the masons during construction of the church.

The tour finished at noon. We walked back to the hotel to change clothes and get on the trikes. (See the interesting artwork of a raccoon on one of the buildings made entirely of car parts.)

We cycled 1/2 hour to ferry dock, only to discover that the ferry couldn’t accept our trikes. We were advised to cycle back downtown to the car ferry. Arghh. Another 1/2 hour ride back, followed by a 1-1/2 hour wait for the car ferry, putting us into the time forecast for EXTREME RAIN WARNINGS.

By the time we got to the other side of the Tagus River it was 4 pm, with 46 kms to go. We set off in a drizzle which turned into a raging downpour for almost all of the 3-1/4 hour ride. Much of the ride was difficult, in the curb lane of busy urban roads during rush-hour. Many of the rural roads were flooded, requiring slow careful traverses of one-foot deep puddles. We rode through those puddles with our bottoms IN the water. It’s a miracle the batteries didn’t short out.

We arrived at the Setubal hotel (Hotel Cristal) in darkness shortly after 7 pm, absolutely soaked, thanks to the directions of a motorist who stopped to give directions to us while we were standing in the pouring rain, looking for it. We were then told that the hotel had no water because of closeby water main break. Arghh. We changed into dry clothes, but only had energy for eating in the hotel restaurant. Unfortunately, we had to cancel our dinner plans with “Marta” and her husband, which Patti was disappointed about, but it would have been ridiculous for them to venture out in that weather. And we were too soggy and tired, t.b.h. Unfortunately it took 1-3/4 hours to get served. Unbelievable, but it must have been crazy in the kitchen with no water. The good news is, they have taken a whole bag of absolutely soaked clothing and will run it all night in their dryer, including the running shoes. AND…. they comped us our dinners (octopus for John, bacalhao for Patti) and three glasses of wine. So gracious and so appreciated.

Tomorrow will be better!!!!

On a good note, the view of Setubal coming in from the south seashore road was lovely. Lots of freighters, beautiful bay.

What a day.