The Pass Through the Pyrénées

We had a perfect day cycling from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Akerreta, Spain. I had planned a route that followed the main road over the pass, but had doubts about it the night before. A bit of research put us on a much less travelled route, following one lane paved roads high in the hills. We saw perhaps two cars during our ascent to 1,000 metres, and with the ups and downs our climbing totalled almost 1,300 metres. Yeah Patti!!!!!

We paralled the Camino de Santiago pilgrims. They use a footpath – not practical on our three-wheelers! We shared the lovely hotel in Akerreta, Spain, with a friendly group of Camino walkers. Most had large suitcases that were being transported for them between overnights. The greeting is ‘Buen Camino’.

This is Patti chiming in here: we went from dodging snails on the roads in France to dodging big fat slugs on the road in Spain. The smells you inhale while you’re riding are intoxicating: the pine of the regenerating forests in France, the sheep and cattle in the meadows, the damp earth of the woods as we climbed higher and higher in the Pyrenees. And while we ride through towns (or cities like Pamplona, the scent of meals being prepared. Garlic. Onions. Eggs. Mushrooms. Ham. Or, as was the case last night at our beautiful hotel restaurant (where Martin Sheen filmed “The Way”), Basque cod stew. Mmmmmmm. I also want to acknowledge the wonderful support that all of these Camino pilgrims have for one another. Some are carrying all of their gear with them. Some are using porters to transport luggage to the next stop. Some are taking a chance on a room being available for them, with no reservations (not for me…), some are walking with friends, or on their own, or with partners, or with knee braces, or with nephews.. or mothers. Every walker is onside with every other walker’s journey and the challenges they have overcome to even start, or WILL overcome to make it to Santiago. It is a beautiful thing to witness from the outside looking in. Camino walkers reading this will undoubtedly concur. I feel very privileged to have seen this. People pulling together in a fragmented world.

Here’s a short video with a few views of our cycle through the pass.

Salies-de-Béarn & Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port

The last two days have been a pleasure as we approach the Pyrenees and the Spanish (Basque) border.

Salies-de-Béarn is a beautiful town, obviously very wealthy in its past. It is known for its salt (hence the name) which is mined by pumping water into the underground deposits here. Also, hot springs with salt concentrations ten times as high as the ocean have attracted many people.

Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port is the starting point for most of the pilgrims who walk the ‘French Way’ of the Camino de Santiago. Lovely walled town, full of shops, small hotels and restaurants. The Camino has several routes, and the ‘French Way’ is used by about 60% of all walkers. It is a challenging walk, and it starts with walking through the Roncesvalles pass through the Pyrenees. Walkers climb to about 1000m over 20kms or so. Not easy.

The video below shows our ride leaving Salies-de-Béarn on Sunday morning through the market, a bit of our journey, and a short video riding through Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port.

A Couple of Challenges

Our third day of riding was much more enjoyable than the first two. The scenery was more interesting and the route took us around many more turns and up and down lots of gentle hills. We had two inconvenient incidents though.

The RideWithGPS app sent us up a bunch of stairs leading to the Abbey at Saint-Sever. Not convenient on recumbent trikes. The video below starts with a Patti and I bumping the trikes up the steps.

An hour or so after that, the app guided us into a long muddy trail – also not good on trikes. We hope you enjoy the rest of the video, accidentally recorded while we push and pull the trikes through the slime. The upside was that the muddy trail was a shortcut that likely saved us about 10km of riding.

Day 2 – Sore to Mont-de-Marsans, France

This area of South-West France is actively being deforested and reforested. Some areas are clear-cut, with saplings of various ages, and others are being selectively cleared. Most of the reforestation is a monoculture pine, perhaps white pine. We saw many heavily-laden trucks carrying unprocessed wood, and several wood mills with large inventories of construction grade product.

When not in the forest area, huge farm fields were populated by long irrigation machines. Agriculture and forestry here are big business.

Mont-de-Marsan is a large scenic town, with the Midou and Douze rivers joining to form the Midouze flowing to the Atlantic. Tomorrow we cycle south again, for our second-last night in France before entering Spain. We will pass through Saint-Sever with its famous abbey, the starting point for many pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. Here’s our progress so far. Each icon is a planned accommodation, spaced about 65 kms apart.

And here’a short video showing a bit of the area we cycled through, and some footage in Mont-de-Marsan.

A few pics from today.

First Day Cycling – Bordeaux to Sore

We took the trikes out of storage in Bordeaux, stayed the night, and set off southwards to Sore, France. The ride first took us through the Grave wine region, with its endless vineyards and spectacular chalets. Then, all of a sudden, the vineyards were replaced with a rather monotonous 60 km or so of heavily forested land. Some areas were clear cut, but reforestation was obviously a stringent requirement.

For a first day out, 80 km was a bit ambitious, but the terrain was fairly flat. As we approach the Spanish border in the next few days the ups and downs will become much less subtle!

Here is a very short video approaching a beautiful chateaux, framed with vineyards. It’s a 360 video, so drag your mouse to look araound.

Here are a few pictures taken by Patti during the ride.

Europe Travel – Spring 2024

PattiAndJohn Europe Travel – Spring 2024

This trip takes us from the Arctic Circle in Norway to Lisbon in sunny and warm Portugal. John will leave two weeks before Patti and join two friends for train travel around Europe.

Then Patti meets John in Paris, rides a train to Bordeaux, and PattiAndJohn head out on a month-long cycling trip to Lisbon.

Here is the cycling route using the great planning app ‘Ride With GPS‘. Each day will feature an 80km ride. Our trikes are made in England by ICE Trikes. They feature full suspension, hub brakes, battery electric assist, and automatic variable speed drive. We travel light with everything in two panniers each. We don’t camp, though! Comfortable small B&Bs or hotels.

For planning, in the RideWithGPS app we set overall start and finish points and let the app select a cycling route, staying off busy roads and unsuitasble trails. The we zoom in on the route and find places to stay about 80kms apart using travel sites like expedia. In very rural areas this can be a challenge.