After our harrowing rides into and out of Arundel we decided to do something about our route design software. For years we have used RideWithGPS for route planning and navigating. Generally it has treated us well. Occasionally we may have been pointed into a field, or placed onto busier roads, but we just considered these occurrences as part of the fun. Leaving Arundel, though, was just not acceptable. Although cycling on a ‘dual-carriage motorway’, in other words a four-lane limited access 60 miles per hour freeway, is legal in the UK, it is very unsafe and stressful, and isn’t fair to the drivers.
We tested a cycle route planning software called cycle.travel for our trip between Chichester and Winchester. The route suggested was about 15 kms longer than what was suggested by RideWithGPS, but what a difference! Most of the trip was on very quiet roads, often one lane wide, with lots of interesting twists, turns and hills. The views over the Hampshire valleys were spectacular. Often we went ten or fifteen minutes without seeing a car, or perhaps only encountering a farm vehicle or two. Lots of cows, sheep, pheasants, and even a couple of very vocal pigs. Our love of cycling in Great Britain has been restored. Thank you cycle.travel.
Uppark House and Hinton Ampner
Our 78 km ride to Winchester offered us two National Trust estates to visit. The first, Uppark House and Garden, includes a 17th-century mansion, a beautiful garden and a commanding view of about 1,400 acres of property. The house was severely damaged by a fire in 1989. Luckily most of the furnishings were rescued heroically as the fire raged.
The National Trust is very proud of the intricate and meticulous restoration of the house and have a display dedicated to showing the old (unsafe) vs new (new and fire retardant) building materials. This is a challenge that all NT properties face: updating and maintaining crumbling properties.
One visually jarring feature at Uppark is the north face, adorned with Greek columns by a family member and his architect, in the late 1700’s. (It wasn’t our favorite National Trust property, obviously!) H.G. Wells’ mother had been a housekeeper at Uppark, and he visited her often in her apartment below the dining room.
The second National Trust property we visited was Hinton Ampner, built in 1793. It owes its present form to the life-long passion of Ralph (pronounced “Rafe”) Dutton. Mr. Dutton, the 8th Baron Sherborne, inherited the estate from his father in 1935 along with scads of money, and proceeded to decorate and fill it with fabulous Neo-Gothic furnishings and treatments, starting in each room with staggeringly beautiful carpets, hand-woven and very, very expensive, which would form his colour and texture scheme for each room. (His father’s tastes had run more to “hunting lodge and antlers”. The house is truly a feast for the eyes. Every single detail is perfect as are the grounds, and the views of the grounds from the windows of the house.
In fact, Mr. Dutton actually decorated and furnished the house twice. It was badly damaged by fire in 1960, but by 1963 he had restored everything, including replacing most of the furniture and paintings. Mr. Dutton never married and had no heirs. He gave the estate to the National Trust when he died in 1985. It was Patti’s favorite National Trust property of the trip.
Patti here: we had a pastoral ride on to Winchester and keeping mind that (a) my parents had visited Winchester on their cycling trip in the 50s, and (b) my maternal grandparents had raised Hereford cattle on their farm near Ayr Ontario, I stopped by the side of a field filled with Hereford cattle, grazing, and sprinkled a few of Mum’s ashes in her memory. I think she would’ve been delighted.
Winchester Cathedral
Three years ago we attended the Choral Evensong at Winchester Cathedral. On that occasion we were delighted to be treated to the annual celebration of William of Wykeham, the bishop of Winchester, during the 14th-century. William was a master builder and designed and managed the construction of Winchester Cathedral among other famous projects. The celebration featured three choirs, and was attended by many young students from the associated boys’ schools. We were blown away by the music.
Little did we realize that our Evensong song this trip was exactly three years later, with the same service. We had arrived early, so caught the mass choirs rehearsal and then stayed, of course for the service which featured many ornately robed church dignitaries, and clouds of incense. The British know how to do spectacle.
Try the Beeline Velo II for route planning and navigation. Includes a ‘climb’ redoubt etc.
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